Hasegawa 1/32 Messerschmitt Bf 109E to K-4 Conversion

By Pascal Huguet

Article Part 1

At the root, this 109-K4 was a Bf 109 E Hasegawa, that I had build 6 years ago. It had been destroyed during a moving (fragile parts as landing-gear, propeller, hood). I was near about to thrown away because of repairs hardness. I finally bought a new box and to try some new techniques, modify wings and tail to convert this E4 to a G6 (graft a Revell G6 cowl, model which was destroyed too, during the same moving) I create a G-10/As tail and canopy (rough because of E4 root). The "restored-wreck" looked good to me at this time and it was my first big parts modification (the result would certainly appal Bf 109 experts). About two years later, during another moving, this plane was complelty crushed (again). Despite of the hours passed on this model, I was about to give up big scale modeling. Most of my 1/32 converted models like Spit Mk XIV, le F4-U2 et le " Rufe " has been damaged during this moving (thank you mum...). I join some snaps of these models wrecks

For a long time, I decided to build a K4, but Revell G6 is rare, so I don't want to waste one. I decided to use some good condition parts of the "G10" and create rest of it. CraftWorks productions planning announced a K4 release for so much time... I was tired of waiting for it. While I was working on the front of the model, I was thinking of a US modeler, which I get on well with for a few weeks. He enjoys to convert models too, so if I could make molds to cast resin parts, I can share these with him and other modelers..

This is the first part of my article, I hope you enjoy my work.

Article Part 2

From these days, I used to cast small resin parts as (wheels, Flaps, rudders for a F4U Revell). This full resin & white metal conversion was a challenge to me, because of big parts as tail, motor or air-intake cowlings and two-parts moulds required for these parts. Another point was the commons parts between the K4 and G6 "As" and G10, each mould would certainly be amortized.

The model is well advanced, I use repair-cars products like polyester and spray mastics. I think you have equivalent stuffs like it in US.

This type of mastic can be used in thick coats. Depending of catalyst quantity use, drying-period can be less than 2 mn. His mastic texture is, and gives a fine surface finish. The second stuff I use is a spray-filler, used for the model engraving. Many spraying of this stuff, gives smooth surfaces. Satin-Grey Product's colour accentuates details and possibles assembly errors. Used for meticulous finish, by coachbuilders, this filler is Easy to sand and add final touches to models, the most interesting is that plane riveting can be represented with a jigsaw blade micro-tool. It colour is very close of German " RLM76 ", which is just what I need, because I provide to paint this K4 with pale blue-grey with RLM81/83 spots NJG11's scheme. I think that readers would prefer to see more photos than text.

All the parts had been heavy to carve, because they were provide to fit with Revell G6, so I had to made many adjustments to match them to this E4. Here is a view of radiator intake and motor-cowling, scratch instrument panel is integrated inside.

(This will cause many troubles with RTV moulds using) Because E4's propeller can't be used for this version and Revell's one is erroneous, I preferred create a new one, more accurate, after casting, the part is sanded, buffed and finally painted with 2 or 3 thin coats of Black-Green colour. To represent propeller wear, I made scratches on blade's extrados (softly), with medium sand-paper.

The fact is I'm a terrible RTV-Silicon waster (not intentionally). During this kit creation, I've often had to recreate moulds parts (lack of documentation) because of metal-casting problems. The 30mm Mauser is made with ears-cleaner's tube.

Cowlings hinges are made with safety-fuse, notched with a cutter-blade.

The scratch-cockpit is build with " evergreen " plastic and some photo-etched parts from Eduard's

I planned to build, a complete resin one later. At first, I made a "master" of the canopy.

Create a RTV mould, cast a piece to check the shape and fitting, then sand down the interior and carved the canopy arches.

The idea was to thermaform a canopy, cut the clear panes, paint resin frames and gluing clear parts on it and I had some dip in "Future" polish-wax to standardize it appearance. I use Squadron thermaform sheets, to mold canopies, but only for represented it locked (because of this stuff thickness which is different from the thermaform, they use for their canopies). Here is a view of the resin mould, which is used for thermaform transparent parts for G et K4

Wings, control surfaces, and wing-humps are in place. Landing-gear & wheels, antenna, split flaps and dropping-tank will be fixed after underside engraving. Wing air-intakes are cut out to recreate their movable parts.

K4' tail is glued and filled, control surfaces will be installed later, after swastika painting.

The whole plane is covered with spray-filler coats and sanded after when dried.

Definitive canopy (which "master" has been modified 5 times), finally fit on E4 fuselage (fit better with G6), and the windscreen could be use for E and F (windows enlarging modification).

The cockpit is RLM66 painted, with few red and white colour for instruments and throttle and finally masked before camouflage spraying. I've pre-shaded panel lines with black to accentuate the model structures.

German markings, codes, maintenance stickers and propeller spiral, are made with paper masks, airbrush and "Rotring" pen.

I prefer handmade painting than using decals, it spare me gloss, matt varnish coats (which thicken shape of the model and shade off metallic finishes). To realize this K4, all information I have was a left profile, so I realised the whole camouflage from it.

Many articles and photos, indicates that K4 motors particularity, is that it had many oil leaking and splattering, so I tried to imagine fuselage dirt.

Here is some photo of resin & metal casts used for the kit.

It takes me at least, less than two months to complete this conversion. Translating this article was finally heaviest than building, but it was a very good practice for both.

I'm working on a complete kit with resin-metal parts: KI-100 "bubble-top" and "Fast-back" versions, as soon as I have collected enough information like plan & photos (if anyone can help). I hope you will enjoy my work.

Parts Listing:

© Pascal Huguet

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This article was published on Wednesday, July 20 2011; Last modified on Saturday, May 14 2016