Master Modeler Rodney Williams Talks Large Scale

By Rogerio "Rato" Marczak

Interview with master modeler Rodney Williams

Master modeler Rodney Williams is very well known from many web sites, books and magazines. His outstanding masterpieces have inspired many modelers over the years, and he has never made any objections in sharing his methods with them, novice or experienced ones. As a long time contributor to LSP, and mostly devoted to large scales, he was an obvious candidate to inaugurate our interviews with famous modelers. We hope you all have a fun time reading this interview, as Rodney explains some of his tips never published before.

Rodney and his multi-award winning 1/24 scale P-51 D "Dallas Doll" back in 1994.

Large Scale Planes: First off thanks for taking the time from your retirement to talk with us Rodney. We know you have been very busy with your F2G Corsair masters and hundred of e-mails from everywhere...

Rodney Williams: It is my pleasure, and it's a great honor bestowed upon me by the guys at Large Scale Planes, to be selected as the "first" master modeler to contribute to this new segment on the web site. I was given the option of just saying "no," and Rato would understand. How could I say "no"? Think of it this way: I contacted them and ask if they would post a few of my models on their web site, with a few hundred photos? They said yes, which made me happy. For that favor, I have to say "yes", as I wanted modelers around the globe to see how I do it. Over the past three years, I've had hundreds of modelers write to me. Some just said a few rewarding words, while others ask questions. If the guys at LSP have posted your models, and they ask you to contribute to this new segment, what should your answer be? Yes, by all means.

There is only one place to be and that is "first". Now read on, as I have 28 questions to answer. I'll make this quote: "Many of the enclosed remarks have been stated before in different stories, which are on the model web sites."

GENERAL

LSP: Give us a short vitae of yours.

RW: My name is Rodney Williams, and come June 26, 2003, I'll be 72 years old, unless I fall over dead from something! My birth year was 1931, so I grew up in the Great Depression, which started in 1929, and ended when we got into World War Two on December 7, 1941. My nationality is a bit of French, some Welsh, and American Indian. I married an extremely beautiful and very talented Polynesian lady from the island of Tutuila, American, Samoa. Her name in Samoan is Tulutululelei, and Caroline in English. We were married on July 7, 1962, and we will celebrate our 41st wedding anniversary this year. Of this marriage came two daughters, and one son. From this, came 3 grandsons, and one granddaughter to date. The oldest grandson has two sons, so we are great grandparents. Man! no wonder why I feel old.

During the "great depression" everyone had to work, (if he could find a job) so I went to work in construction at age 10. I learned it all! (From design to turn key). Turn key means giving the new home owner the house key when you are finished building it. I also had a paper route, and homework from school. I was busy, to say the least. I stayed in the construction business until my hobby of photography turned into a full time profession, (circa 1960). In 1971 I went to American Samoa and produced films for P.B.S. TV. I never went to school for film and/or still photography. It just came natural, like my other abilities such as architectural design, artist, model builder.

LSP: When was your first plastic model experience? Do you remember the subject?

RW: My first plastic model was a Monogram 1/48 scale Corsair, (circa: summer of 1977). That's the year I got back into modeling, as I had left Samoa after seven years, and there was no more "scuba diving." This model was a snap to put together, compared to the flying stick models I built during the '40s/'50s, including the Strombecker and Consolidated wooden models.

LSP: What are your primary interests in plastic modeling?

RW: I have no real primary interest in subject matter, and/or scale. I've built tanks, cars, ships submarines, jets, and prop aircraft, including a few dinosaurs. Of course, my favorite aircraft is none other than the Corsair, 'cause my dad worked on them at Goodyear Aircraft Corp., and I sat in them when I was a kid.

LSP: Are you a professional modeler?

RW: For several years I built just for me! While at an air show displaying my models, along with other club members, I sold four of my models, and came home with $400.00. This guy was my first client, and spent about $8,000.00 over the next few years, buying my models. When I sold my pride and joy for almost $10,000.00, I took off building for clients.

The more I added into the model, the higher the price became. I built from 1984 until 2000, then had to quit, due to having eye trouble. I made over $100,000.00, so I've had my day. Remember! To make this kind of money, you have to be good. Divide ten grand by 2000 hours and you get your hourly rate, which is not much money per hour. This scratch building turns out to be very time consuming. I guess you can say: "It's the love of the hobby".

LSP: About how many models have you built during your career? Are you still building models?

RW: Since 1977 I probably built close to 125 models, of which I think I have about 40 of them in my show cases. One summer in the mid 1980s, after I got to be a better builder, my young grandson Tyler, and I played war with about 25 to 30 of the models. They were all destroyed in battle. That's ok with me, as they were junk to begin with. I put them together on Saturday, and they were painted on Sunday. There were gaps, seams, and glue all over them. Don't even ask about alignment?

TECHNICAL

LSP: Would you mind to share one or two of your favorite modeling tips with us?

RW: My tips are: If you are going to learn how to scratch build parts for a model, just look at the part, and or a photo of something, then cut and fit until it fits, and it looks like the real thing (that's how I learned how to do it). Another tip concerns painting: Use an internal mix airbrush like my Badger 200, and thin your paint at least 4 parts thinner to one part paint. You can learn more of my tips from my stories on this site, including ARC, Hyperscale and Skywriters. Just go hunting in the prop and jet aircraft categories.

LSP: Do you like to weather your models or you prefer them ´brand new´? If you like weathering, which methods you prefer?

RW: Weathering: I'm not too good at it! However, I do use artist oils somewhat in panel lines, by painting it on and then wiping it off real quick with a Q-tip.

My favorite weathering method: I sand my models down to about 1200 grit, then apply SnJ Aluminum, and just buff out the aluminum without using the powder. I apply "only" Tamiya flats on top of the SnJ. I pick, scrape, and sand off the Tamiya paint.

LSP: Enamels or acrylics, any preference?

RW: When I first got started painting models, I used Testors enamels. When Tamiya came out with their acrylic water base paints, I started using it. Next, came Scott Bells enamel base "SnJ Spray Metal Aluminum" paint. About the same time, Ron Eminger introduced me to "automotive lacquer" paint, and the "green stuff." The green stuff was the fine line masking tape made by 3M. For over a decade and a half, all I use is lacquer, Tamiya's acrylics, and SnJ. I have developed a paint application process with the above items that will beat anyones paint jobs. Look at my 1/48 scale F8F-1 Bearcat "Show Plane," which was recently posted on Hyperscale.

LSP: NMF (natural metal finish)... which method/paint?

RW: In 1984 I tried using "Metalizer" which is a natural metal paint on my 1/32 scale F-86. Even today, the paint will come off onto my hand [Rato´s tip: pre-mix it with Metalizer Sealer - prod. #1409 - and it won´t came off, Rodney. Same finish, but no more buffing]. At a recent monthly club meeting, a guy showed his bare metal finished model. He said he applied "Alclad," but took all the paint off twice, before he finished it. Well, I never tried Alclad, as my SnJ Aluminum is it, bar none (I only have to put it on once!).

LSP: Clear coats (gloss and flat)... which brand?

RW: In the past, I used Tamiya's clear for clear coating, but it takes too long to dry! In the mid 1980s, I switched to auto lacquer, and Future Floor Wax. When I finished my 1/48 scale F-18A Hornet "Blue Angels" model, I mixed the Future with denatured alcohol. I have a super hi gloss finish on this model. One day down the road, I'll have to post it on somebody's web site. The finish will blow your socks right off your feet.

LSP: Which airbrush do you use? Compressor or CO2? Any special recipe on pressure and thinning ratio?

RW: In 1980 I was informed by my artist friend Roger Sook to buy a Badger 200 single action "internal mix" airbrush. He gave the reasons why: An internal mix air brush lets the paint and air mix together inside the gun. The balls of paint, as Roger called it, comes out of the gun super fine. This does not happen with the external mix air brush. Roger said not to buy a double action air brush, as you will never get use to using it unless you use it every few days like he does. I experimented with his air brushes in his studio. I pay next to no attention to my air pressure on my little air compressor. It's somewhere between 10 to 20 psi. I have two Badger 200 air guns. They work like new, as they are cleaned after every use with either lacquer thinner, and/or denatured alcohol. Here's one advantage by owning a Badger: The company will replace the "needle" bearing free of charge, "forever." I've have both of my guns serviced several time by Badger. Once, they just sent me a brand new Badger 200, "free." My paint to thinner ratio is mentioned above (at least 4 parts thinner to one part paint).

LSP: What is your approach to apply decals (including when applied over NMF)? Do you use to paint your markings?

RW: I apply decal by this method: Again, long ago, another modeler by the name of Paul Ward said to mix equal parts of "Micro-Set" and "Micro-Sol" together. I trim all decals to the edge of each letter/number, including the insides, (eg: A, O, P, E, 4, 6, 8, 9 etc.). Once the decal paper has softened up in the water, I carefully remove all the excess decal film. I apply the "Set/Sol," (SS) mixture to the decal while it's still on it's paper backing. I apply water and the SS to the area on the model, then slide on the decal. Once the decal is positioned correctly, I roll a damp water wet Q-tip carefully over the decal. A few minutes later, I do it again, with a new Q-tip. After a day or two of drying time I can clear coat the model with Future, then add any dull coat. For my SnJ bare metal models, I use the above procedure, but without any clear/dull coat on the decals.

In a few of my stories, I show how I airbrush on my insignias, and other markings. I cut patterns out of artist "frisket film".

LSP: Do you like to use detail (photo-etched and/or resin) sets?

RW: Yes! I have used photoetched, and cast resin parts. Some of them fit, while others do not. I'm building a 1/32 scale F4U-1A Corsair, #5 which has the new R-4360-2 28 cylinder engine, long cord cowling, etc. (see a photo of it in the "F4U Corsair in Action," Squadron Signal Book, #29, page 36). I purchased Verlinden´s cast resin cockpit. Some parts do not fit just right, and I can not get the lower center wing section on the model. I had to cut off about a 1/16" to 1/8" from the bottom of the cast resin cockpit tub, which left the recessed bottom window exposed. I can see having fit problems if you are a novice model builder, which I am not. The P-40E photo etched set was next to worthless. Somebody did not do their homework on the cockpit items, that's for sure. When my "cast resin" F2G Corsair cockpit is ready for market, it will fit!

LSP: You have any preferences about model manufacturers? If so, why?

RW: I have no real preference to any model manufacture. They all have their good and bad points concerning a model kit. My saying is: "At least there's a kit to start with". Take a look at my XF-91 Thunderceptor (part 1, 2 and 3) on ARC. It was made by Linberg. Without the kit, I would have never though about scratch building the model.

LSP: What types of modeling putty do you generally use?

RW: I don't use any model putty. I fill all my gaps and seams with super glue.

LSP: Do you make molds of your scratchbuild parts to save work in future (similar) projects?

RW: I've had RTV molds made by others from my masters to cast parts in resin and in brass. Most all of my casting molds are long gone, which were either sold and/or given away.

LSP: You usually make your own canopies by vaccum-forming. What sort of clear sheet (material) do you use?

RW: I have made "plaster-of-paris" molds to vacuform canopies and windscreens. I buy the special clear vac-u-forming plastic (Butyrate) at my local hobby shop.

LSP: Do you follow any special (personal) procedure during the construction of a model? How do you start a new modeling project? What impel you to choose a given subject?

RW: My special procedures depends on who I am building for, and what they want in a model. My clients send me all the books, drawings, and two kits. If I build for just me, I want my model to be just like my clients, which is a 9.5 on a scale of one to ten. Sometimes I start with building the wheel wells, while other times I start on the cockpit.

Research depends on what the client, and/or I want on and in the model. Why I build a certain model is a good question. I guess the answer is: I want it in my collection!

JUST CURIOUS

LSP: Do you have, like some of us, piles of unassembled kits? If so, about how many?

RW: At one time I had over 1,100 kits. After I got into detailing a model by adding items, I realized it would take over 50 years to build all of them. Now I have have 8 to 10 models in my closet, and I know I will not build most of them.

LSP: Do you work in more than one subject at the same time?

RW: Not often do I work on more than one model at a time, especially if I was building for a client.

LSP: What is your average time to finish a model (researching and building)?

RW: I have no average time, when it comes to building a model. I invest at least a100+ hours on my "out-of-the-box" models. Labor for clients models range from 500 to over 3,000 hours.

LSP: In what you have been working lately? Any future projects in sight?

RW: Presently I'm finishing the 1/32 scale F2G Corsair masters, which I started in 1997. Someday down the road, they will be ready for sale, which will be announced on several model web sites. In between this project, I've built a few out-of-the-box models. I am working on my last three 1/72 scale F2G racing aircraft, including my 1/32 F2G #9, and the F4U-1A #5, which is mentioned above. What comes next depends on my health, especially my eyes, and shaky hands. I really think I'll give it up if I can finish these five models.

LSP: Do you attend (or used to attend) regularly to modeling contests?

RW: I use to go to all of them here in Northern California, and to all the national contests. Now days, I may go to one or two of them. I have not been to a IPMS/USA national contest since 1998.

LSP: Are you affiliate to IPMS?

RW: I was a member of IPMS/USA from 1984 until 1998.

LSP: Do you have an all time favorite aircraft? Which one?

RW: This was answered before, but I'll say it again: It's the Corsair!

LSP: What are your other interests in real life?

RW: At present, my other interest in life is sharing it with my wife. We plan on moving soon, and just kick back and do whatever. We may do a bit of traveling, who knows!

LSP: What is your personal opinion about the future of our hobby?

RW: I think plastic model building will be around for a long time, but who knows for sure? Both of my grandsons got into, then out of model building. If no new kids come along, and us old folks die off, where's the hobby? Go out and get a kid interested! (ed. note: this is important folks!)

LSP: Would you like to say something special to the Large Scale Planes readers?

RW: To all the Large Scale Planes readers: Thanks for all your praised comments concerning my models. My intent was, and still is: "I hope you become a better builder, by viewing my stories". I looked at photos, I cut and fit, and I became good at it. If I can do it, so can you. It takes time!

Rodney Williams