Revell-Monogram 1/32 McDonnell Douglas F-4G Phantom II USAF (Slatted Wing)

By Thierry Laurent

TYPE: F-4G Phantom II
SCALE: 1/32
COMPANY: Revell-Monogram
KIT Number: 5994
MOLD CREATION DATE:
- 1994 (Revell Germany) for RF-4E sprues
- 1995 (Revell Germany) for F-4F sprues
- 1998 for F-4E sprue
- 2015 for the F-4G sprues

KIT DATABASE ENTRY:
http://www.largescaleplanes.com/kitdb/details.php?kit=2311

TWEAK LIST VERSION 1.3 (publication date: August 2016)

The following list is intended to help modelers in improving scale accuracy of an airplane model replica. In no way is it intended to support or be offensive towards a scale model company.

As such, it is only the result of a progressive process and is in no way intended to be absolute or even comprehensive. Hence, it is intended to focus on commonly admitted discrepancies and will probably not cover some errors. It is up to the modeler to decide whether correcting the listed issues is worth the time and money he will have to invest in the quest for accuracy process.

No aftermarket correction or detail set is mentioned in this document as the availability of such items may be very variable. Hence, refer to other LSP sections to find relevant information. Moreover, aftermarket sets do not necessarily correct all listed issues. Please refer accordingly to relevant documentation.

GENERAL OVERVIEW

The F-4G kit is an evolution of the F-4E kit that was already based on the F-4F and prior RF-4E model. The F-4E added an additional sprue (correct upper fin part with RHAW antenna, slotted stabilators, cockpit front and side instrument panels plus two Sparrow missiles) and similarly, one new sprue with dedicated F-4G parts was added in this release (front IPs, APR-38 system antennas and SEAD missiles with launchers) plus an optional one piece windshield. Practically, this means that an F-4E, F or G may be built out of this box, notwithstanding the various discrepancies described in the current list. Indeed, many specific RF-4E, F-4F or F-4E details have not been modified to depict an accurate F-4G.
Light/medium grey plastic has no or very little flash. Canopies parts are crystal clear and their fit to their frames is near perfect. Surface detailing is superb, all engraved with excellent fine lines to just the right depth. Fit of parts is generally very good.
The kit has different types of dimension problems. Some are quite visible while other ones will be invisible for a large majority of people. The first problem relates to obvious nose and engine air intake dimensions and shape problems. This really spoils the look of the assembled kit from the side. The canopies dimensions are incorrect but when they are opened, this is far less obvious. The less obvious problem is the fact that most of the fuselage cross sections from the nose to the parachute hatch are dubious. This covers the Vulcan gun bottom fairing, the nose and front fuselage sides, the intake profile as well as the fuselage rear end. A lot of subtle curves have not been reproduced and depicted by too flat reproductions. Some hints here and there reveal such issues (such as the too flat front landing gear door).

NOTICEABLE FUSELAGE ISSUES (from front to rear)

Replace the pitot tube (too short).
The nose is wrong from the windscreen forward. The top of the nose has straight profile from the windscreen to the radome whereas the full-scale one actually had a slight curve. There is the same problem from plan view. Note the kit radome has been re-designed and is far less pointy than in the F-4E and F releases. However, it is still noticeably incorrect when viewed from the side. The upper slope is going down far too much whereas the bottom is too flat. So, as for the F-4E and F prior releases, it is still required to correct the nose radome profile or use an aftermarket resin nose.
A "U" shaped line is molded on the nose. As it is intended to locate the gun gas purge moving door, it must be sanded. Do not put part 230 as this is precisely the Vulcan gun gas purge only used on the F-4E/F.
The gun vents on each side of the nose must be filled in (oval one the starboard side and oblong on the port one) and the three missing small low-bands antenna shall be added on each side. Note that some small panel lines are incorrectly located in that zone.
Fill the step erroneously molded on the front fuselage starboard side as the real airframe only has steps on the port side.
The oval-shaped panel that covers the radome hinge on the starboard side of the nose has a panel line running vertically through it that needs to be filled.
The big chin APR-38 antenna (parts 272-273) under the radome is incorrectly shaped. It asks for replacement or a major rework as:
- It is too narrow.
- Its end is too blunt
- It has vertical sides whereas they should be sloped.
- The lower edges look too angular.
- The lip covering the seam between the pod and nose is missing on the radome.
- The panel line locations are not accurate.
The most obvious correction asks for adding a triangular shim between the two parts to get a larger and more rounded look after careful sanding.
The chin pod side beam antenna discs are too simplified and the antenna perimeter should be more angular.
The fairing bulge bottom under the nose is flattened whereas the real airframe part is rounded. Sand the edges of the fairing and of the rear LG door (part 221) to get a more rounded look. Ideally replace the front landing gear small door (part 218) as this one it too flat to be sufficiently corrected by some sanding. This may be recreated out of a bomb body.
The front gun vent slots under the nose must be filled in. However, keep the rear ones and scribe them deeper.
The special threat warning receiver antenna should be added under the nose. Copy the upper one (part 276).
The length of the front landing gear door is erroneous. It is noticeably too short (more or less 2mm). This means that the shape of the corresponding cut in the fairing under the nose is similarly incorrect.
The oval shaped vent on the rear nose gear door (right side of the bulge that matches up to the nose pod) is missing. Note this is hard to see with the door open, even on the real jet. The front section of the door is also far too simplified. Use plasticard to correct and detail the complex missing elements.
The air conditioning large intakes on the sides of the nose (228 & 229) should not taper. The sides should be parallel. To correct them, cut a slot right in the middle, insert a triangle of plastic, sand and drill the front intake face.
Formation strip lights should protrude about 0,5cm from the surface of the actual airframe. Use thinnest styrene strip you find or photo-etched parts. Add them on the nose, fuselage and tail sides.
The area between door 19 and the rear canopy is too short. Door 19 is the panel just behind the rear canopy with the IFF antenna, upper fuselage nav light, and SST-181X Beacon antenna on it. The humped part of Door 19 is a separate part (166) in the kit whereas it is part of the same panel on the real airframe. Hence, the seam should be filled in. Small circle on door 19 should be a clear position light. Large circle is IFF antenna and should be black. Position light on door 19 and the two under the intakes didn’t have reflectors, so the inside was just a black hole when the lights were not on.
Engine air Intake parts are noticeably inaccurate:
- The external body part (49-54) is 2-3mm too long and similarly too high. Actually, the intake front face looks like the one of a Rolls-Royce Spey engine Phantom. If you want to use them, take care adjusting them correctly as the assembly is a little bit fiddly. Check the access panel lines on the side of the intake trunks as they have several errors.
- There is no intake duct part. Either use aftermarket parts, make them from plasticard or scratch-build FODs to hide intake void. Probes mounts inside of intakes should be straight, not swept back. If you add ducts, note that part 40 should not be set vertically in the fuselage as engines have a positive angle. Hence, glue part upper edge behind the positioning tabs.
- Improve vari-ramps (air splitter plates) vents: thin edges and add two thin internal walls. The outboard panels of the vari-ramps were moveable, and they had a panel that slid over the inboard section on the top and bottom of the ramp. Made them with very thin styrene. Also note angle of top of vari-ramp too steep as it goes up to intake. The inboard edge of the ramp is angled down, not straight across like every F-4 kit ever produced has. The one on the underside is straight across. Last but not least, the parts have a hollow rear face when it should be solid, remove locating pins and use plastic card to fill the void.
- It is recommended to correct or replace them with aftermarket or Tamiya parts as this problem noticeably spoils the look of the plane.
Add some strips of plasticard (+/- 1,5mm) around the cut in part 58 where the front fuselage parts will have to be glued to ensure the nose section will be correctly located.
The ALQ-119/131/184 pod pylon is too simplified. It is at least required to add the missing sway braces.
Some other visible details are missing in the Sparrow bays. This is not terrible if the missiles or ECM pod are used. However, this should at least be solved for the front starboard bay that systematically stayed empty. Look closely for connecting, locking and launching parts. They ask for addition of small scratch-built parts.
The engine auxiliary air intakes on either side of the center-line belly rack are closed. Actually, they are opened on any parked Phantom. Open them, scratch them as well as their actuator and the undersides of the engines (with various pumps, pipes, and hoses added). Note that, except the doors, this area is far from being really visible on a model. To add a section simulating the visible belly of the engines, it is required to remove part of the horizontal strengthener molded with each fuselage half.
The little triangular NACA intake forward of the right side auxiliary air door does not exist on the full scale airframe. Actually, this should be a protruding antenna.
Diamond-shaped AIM-7 missile guidance antennae need to be added to aft ends of aft Sparrow missile bays. That NACA duct on the belly is where the forward AIM-7 missile guidance antenna should be. It is the same shape as the two aft ones.
A small drain exhaust is missing on each fuselage side (above the root of the leading edge of the wing).
Add the two missing small refueling lights, side by side just forward of refueling door.
The refueling door side edges should not be symmetrical.
The F-4Es have never been fitted with Ram Air Turbine (on left side of fuselage in the center of the walkway) and just had avionics placed there under a screw-down panel. Accordingly, fill the middle line that runs front to back on the port side. Also note that no F-4 had these doors on the starboard side. The two doors for the RAT were changed to one large panel, and this area was used to house a receiver-processor for the RHAW on the F-4E. As all F-4Gs were built out of 1969 F-4Es, fill accordingly panel lines.
Fill the Sparrow wells slots as even if you use missiles, they are visible. If you use Sparrow missiles, you will conclude that they do not fit rear wells. Hence, move the rear slots as the Sparrow radome has to be at the forward part of the well. Check also the missiles position to ensure their fins will not foul the main flaps. Cut off the upper fins on the missile and fill the location holes which you sealed earlier then sand them smooth with wet and dry wrapped around a paint brush handle, the missiles will now fit fully forward in the bays clearing the flaps and the air brakes. Last, the length of the rear Sparrow trenches is too long. This is not too noticeable at the front (more or less 1 mm) but this is obvious at the rear and some millimeters should ideally be filled (compare a view of the side/belly edge of the kit with the full-scale plane). The rear bay end should be more or less aligned with the long panel line going from one side edge of the belly to the other one right in front of the exhausts.
The engine maintenance panels on the rear belly do not correspond to the full scale ones (dimensions and locations). Moreover, the kit has a step between each engine fairing and the central section of the belly whereas the full scale airframe shows a smoother transition.
The blade of “splitter plate” on intake at base of fin is too thick. Moreover, the intake needs to be opened above the little horizontal splitter.
The small bare metal bleed air exhaust located on each fuselage side just above the engine exhaust is not totally correct but the slots shape error is not very noticeable.
Add details behind the little window located up to the front titanium area on the starboard fuselage (forward of the right stabilator). This is door 62 on the full scale airframe. Add the arresting hook gear hydraulic oil servicing gauge and the air filler valve with a yellow cap: Some plastic sprue lengths with a spare gauge decal behind the transparent part will mimic this.
Check that elevators have the correct 23° anhedral angle (use a paper template if necessary). Reinforcing the location tab is a good idea as the assembly stays fragile because of the tab short length.
The tail has a small strip on its base whereas the corresponding one on the fuselage is missing. Just add it with a thin plastic strip.
Scribe the missing panel lines (panel 106R) on the right side just aft of the stabilator pivot assembly.
Fill the access panel lines on the vertical fin right side (the round panels and the one just under the fin cap).
The round panel 69 is missing on the port side of the tail (just in front of the rudder bottom edge).
Add the missing small drain pipe under tail, between the stabilators.
Add the V shaped part behind the arresting hook end (scratch-built or photo etched part). The cross section of the arresting hook does not look fully correct but this is not really visible when it is in the retracted position. The hook end is too thick. It should be sanded to be thinner.
Add the missing pull rod for opening the drag chute door, under the aft fuselage, between the stabs.
The drag chute door/ aft fuselage (part 167) cross section is too square, but not really noticeable. This may be improved with some careful sanding.
The afterburner nozzles are not very detailed. Detail them with photo-etched parts or replace them with identical diameter resin ones. Afterburner cans (parts 69) are far too short. Replace them with home-made (not easy) or aftermarket parts. Note some DIY plastic tubes used for connecting tubes hiding household electricity wire have the correct diameter. Last, it is not possible to add correct length cans without cutting into the rear section of the horizontal strengthener molded with each fuselage side.
The fasteners of the titanium sheets protecting the area under the tail are not correctly depicted. Each one should look like a double engraved circle rather than a screw hole. To improve it as it is, add a larger circle over the scribed hole with a watchmaker beading tool. The vertical weld lines are also missing on each section. They may be simulated with darker paint or a faint line of liquid putty. Note that even if it is a little bit exaggerated, the step depicted between each sheet is accurate.
The small low band antennas are also missing on the tail.
The dimensions of the tail tip pod are not fully correct but this is not noticeable. Moreover, the small antenna located on the rear of the pod side should protrude more. Remove them with a scalpel blade, glue them on a plastic shim, sand the combination and re-glue them on the pod to get a more accurate look.

NOTICEABLE WING/WEAPONS ISSUES

Be cautious when you will add the two parts closing the holes on the lower front wing (parts 61 & 62: location of gun cameras on Air Force and catapult hooks on Navy planes). Indeed, the tabs intended to secure the parts are not correctly positioned and without care, it is easy to position the parts wrongly/too deeply.
The dihedral of the outer wing panels is not correct: it should be 12.5 degrees, not 8.
The outboard slats are the missing triangular plate on their inboard ends. This should create a slot that the wing fence fits into. As-is, there is just a cut-out in the inboard end of the slat that the fence fits into. The wing fences actually protrude out past the leading edge of the wing panel and have a rounded forward edge. This is hidden by the outer slat so it may not be a problem with most modelers. By the way, the wing fences are too thick, and should be replaced with thin plastic card or photo-etched parts.
The slat actuators are not correct as they are just featureless plastic strips without any hinge. However, this is not very visible because they are partly hidden under the slats.
Each internal slat actuator (parts 223 to 227) should have two holes with recessed bolt heads on each side.
The panel lines between the inboard slat actuators on the bottom of the wing are wrong for a slatted wing. This is a legacy of the RF-4E hard wing kit.
The bottom of the outboard wing at the outboard end of the slat has the same indentation just aft of the slat as the top of the wing; this doesn't exist on the real airplane. The bottom surface should be continuous and smooth.
The panel lines on top of the wings outboard the wing folds are also mostly incorrect. The full scale part shows essentially two large removable panels.
The wing tips RWR antennae parts (211) are molded in clear plastic when they should be black (fiberglass painted with black Neoprene rubber on the real jet). Moreover, they are much too large. Sand them down to less than half of their original height before attaching them to the model. Alternately, use the two clear antennae as the wingtip rear lights (red on port, blue on starboard) and use the two grey plastic domes as RWR antennae!
The aft ends of wing tips should be nav. lights (red port, blue starboard).
Cut out wing flaperons, add detail on their side edges and wing corresponding edges. Reinstall them in a slightly down position.
The oval fuel tank vents just outboard of ailerons should be hollow.
Move holes for the inboard pylons as they are supposed to line up with the rib that runs through each MLG wheel well (the pylon rear actually bolts to this rib on the real jet).
All F-4Gs had a long belly strap intended to strengthen the airframe structure under the center fuselage up to the wing fold on each side. The kit does not have it. Add it with thin plastic strip or use an aftermarket set.
Improve the rear of AN/ALE 40 chaff dispensers mounts on inboard pylons sides: either open the rear end (make a square hole with a file) or add the cover plate with its four bolts. If you want to reproduce a plane active in Gulf war zone, add scratch-built or aftermarket chaff/flare boxes.
Add AIM-7 Sparrow missiles exhausts. Do not forget that the conduit on the missile body should always be located on the external side of the missile (port for the left missile and starboard for the right one).
The kit offers two good AGM-45 Shrike and a nice AGM-78 Standard ARM missiles with their LAU-34 & 78 launchers. However, the Nellis and Boise kit decal schemes correspond to very late airframes (mid-nineties) whereas the aforementioned missiles were already out of service for some years. Accordingly, use other decals to depict an eighties plane in SEA, wraparound or Euro 1 camo scheme or do not use such a war load and rely on aftermarket AGM-65 Maverick and/or preferably AGM-88 HARM missiles.
The ALQ-119 ECM pod nose is a bit too blunt. Moreover, the pod mounts are located too far forward (+/- 15 mm) on the pylon. To correct this, use the front one as the rear and move the rear one where it should be. Again, this pod does not correspond to the period decal scheme. An ALQ-184 would be more appropriate for the chosen scheme. Note that Spangdhalem-based F-4Gs rather used the ALQ-131.
The 370 gallon wing tanks likewise are slightly too narrow but this is not really noticeable.
The kit gives the option to use Sidewinder missiles. Note that except a rare captive missile used for training purposes, pictures never show the use of live AIM-9 on the F-4G.

NOTICEABLE COCKPIT ISSUES

The front instruments glare shield is misshaped. Reshape it, use one from an aftermarket cockpit set or modify a leftover Tamiya F-4D part. Gun-sight (LCOSS) is not really correct either.
The cockpit floor is a little bit too low. This is not really significant for the front tub and less than 3 mm too low for the rear one. A problem is the lack of correctly proportioned aftermarket seats (many are tailored for the too shallow Tamiya cockpit). To bring rear seats up above the cockpit sills, separate front and rear tubs and modify the rear one to put it higher. Modify the rear bulkhead of aft cockpit as it should be vertical. To correct this, remove the rear wall and add 15mm to the rear edge of the floor. Note that in the rear cockpit, the consoles did not go all the way back to the rear bulkhead, but stop about even with the middle of the seat. Aft of these, there were shelves with the various black boxes on them. Consequently, add missing black boxes at the rear of side instrument consoles and on rear bulkheads if you do not use an aftermarket cockpit. This partly corresponds to the 15mm floor difference explained above. If you correct this, keep in mind the rear seat will need new seat rail guides to compensate the angle difference between the vertical bulkhead and the rear of the seat. The slant of the rear wall in the front cockpit is also incorrect (too far forward). This results in the floor shifting forward which throws of any other details like instrument panel location. Again, this should not be parallel to the seat rails. Note that the rear wall of the front station is actually the front one of the rear station. So, more or less 9 mm of floor should also be added to connect the floor of the rear station to this bulkhead (11mm if the angle is not corrected). Another solution implies rebuilding more correctly sized cockpit tubs from scratch.
The cockpit sills are too narrow and lack the structural details and the holes corresponding to the canopy hooks.
Whereas the F-4F kit has new parts, the F-4G kit (as the E) has only the “old” Mk-H7AF seats parts from the RF-4E (parts 1 to 6 and 19). Correct and detail them or use aftermarket resin seats.
Turn the pilot control column (part 10) through 180 degrees as it is depicted the wrong way round.
Fit part 189 directly onto the bridge (part 74) not the control panel as suggested in the instructions.
There is a seam between both sides of the centre bar linking both front fuselage parts between pilot & WSO stations. Use the canopy bridge part (74) to determine which thickness of plastic strip should be added rather than squeezing both fuselage parts to meet in the middle.
The front IP of both stations is globally correct but not fully accurate (parts 270 & 271). Unfortunately, for a weird reason the molding is unfortunately too soft and the parts look featureless and too flat, in fact more than the prior F-4E parts. Moreover, there is again no anti-reflect radar scope shroud.
There is no detail behind the WSO front panel (part 271). Add lengths of sprues and square plastic strips to mimic instruments & screens rear faces. Add other details in front of rear side of upper WSO panel (many conduits and circuits wires are missing between the stations).
Add similar wires and hoses behind the WSO station.
Throttles part locators are too large for corresponding holes in side consoles (parts 183-185). Moreover, the throttles should rather be put on the full aft (“idle/cut off”) position.
The rear side panel are the ones of the F-4E whereas the integration of the DMAS suite in the F-4G resulted in noticeable different instruments on the starboard side. The kit has the APG-65 radar antenna control stick on the WSO right instrument console whereas the F-4E/G used a differently shaped one (LRU-10 for APQ-120 radar).
Add the missing AVTR box on the rear port side of the pilot station. Similarly, add the Flight Director Computer and INS boxes on the same location of the WSO station plus the pitch gyro box on the opposite (starboard) rear side. Note that in spite the seat hides this; the side consoles are not going up to the WSO rear bulkhead and consequently the above mentioned boxes are fixed on small trays.
Add a map reading lamp in each cockpit station (a length of sprue with a coiled wire).
Add circuit breakers, other details and insulated panels on sidewalls if you do not use an aftermarket cockpit.
Add the oxygen hoses, map case as well as landing gear, brakes and other missing levers if you do not use an aftermarket cockpit.
Add the canopy opening mechanism and other missing details on the cockpit bulkheads if you do not use an aftermarket cockpit.

NOTICEABLE CANOPY ISSUES

The windscreen is slightly misshaped and this problem is similar but fortunately less noticeable for the single piece option (part 300). The front canopy is too short and the rear one is too long. The dimensions of the bridge part are noticeably wrong. Moreover, they also have a little bit too flat cross section. This is fortunately not too noticeable when canopies are opened. The canopies can be displayed closed or open but in the latter case the hinges are so tiny they will not support the parts. The rams are best replaced but even then the leverage is too great so file an angle to match the raised frame between the hinge slots on the bridge and rear fairing and use a dab of superglue to fix them strongly.
Fit part 189 directly onto the bridge (part 74) not the control panel as suggested.
There are no canopy hooks. Use photo-etched or scratch-built ones.
Add canopy knives, data cards and other details on canopy internal sides.
Add rear-view mirrors where required. F-4s generally have the mirrors mounted to the underside of each canopy.
The "Canopy Interdictor Block" (keeps the seat from firing until the canopy has been jettisoned) wire is missing. This is a small coiled wire that goes from the right rear of the ejection seat to the rear of each canopy.

NOTICEABLE LANDING GEAR ISSUES

Do not use bulged tires. Just look at pictures and you will see that kit “weighted” tires rather depict deflated ones!
The main wheels are a little bit too narrow and have a too large diameter but this is not really noticeable. Moreover, the outboard side of the main wheel is completely incorrect. However, this is not really noticeable as for the most part it is hidden behind the gear door. Possibly replace wheels with accurate aftermarket ones.
The main landing gear struts are 3mm too long. Add hydraulic lines on gear legs.
The main wheel wells are also too shallow. Cut away top surface and rebuild up sides with plasticard. Add wiring & linkages detail, hydraulic lines & servicing connectors, structural formers, uplock latches on rib, refuel control panel (right MLG) and communication panel (left MLG) in landing gear bays. Alternately, use a correction aftermarket set. The main landing gear door linkages (parts 110) will not fit as shown. It is necessary to drill a 1mm hole a little further outboard in the wheel bay, in line with the rivets.
The nose gear strut is much too thin. Either scratch-build another one (look at the Tamiya one) or replace it with an aftermarket one. A lot of wiring and additional details are also missing. The front landing gear linkage rods (parts 94) should fit to the door approximately half way up the lamp box not on the end of it. However this asks for increasing the width of the leg location to get a comfortable fit.
The landing light oval lens in the too flat nose gear door should be larger and slightly frosted. It is also positioned wrongly as is its window in the door. Remove the location and the rivets from the inside of the door, fit the window (part 217) from the inside of the door then add the lamp box (part 219) so that the top light can be seen through the window and the bottom one below the door itself.
Sand the inner faces of rear door parts 220 & 221 to give a thinner section simulating metal sheet thickness.
The nose wheel well is too shallow and needs detail added (lots of hydraulic lines, structural formers, CNI bay door, etc.).
Possibly replace landing gear tie-down rings with new ones made from brass wire.

OTHER NOTICEABLE ISSUES & MISCELLANEOUS REMARKS

The crew ladder has no "hooks" at the top to locate it into the cockpit. However, using it needs solving the air intakes length issue.
No landing gear down locking jack is provided.
The kit has APG-65 radar parts not mentioned in the instructions. They may only be used to build upgraded Luftwaffe ICE F-4Fs or Hellenic Air Force upgraded F-4Es (Peace Icarus 2000). Similarly, the useless AMRAAM missiles are only relevant for the Luftwaffe ICE F-4F.

KIT MARKINGS

Revell-Monogram decals are good but far from comprehensive regarding stenciling and panel number. However, it is true that pictures of late F-4Gs do not show extensive stenciling as it was the case on seventies/early eighties planes.

REFERENCES

The following sources were used to build this list.

Modelling Essentials:

Davis, Larry, F-4E Phantom II, walkaround N°45, 5545, Squadron Signal Publications, 2007.
Kinzey, Bert, F-4E& F-4G - F-4 Phantom II Part 2, Detail & Scale, Kalmbach/Squadron Signal Publications, 1993.
Melampy, Jake, The Modern Phantom Guide: The F-4 Phantom Exposed, Reid Air Publications, 2009.

Scale Plans and TM Extracts:

Hughes, Kris, Dranem, Walter, McDonnell Douglas F-4 Gun Nosed Phantoms, Warbird Tech Vol. 8, Specialty Press, 1997.
-, F-4 Phantom II USAF models, Famous Airplanes of the World n° 86, Bunrin-Do, 2001.
-, F-4 Phantom II – Phantom in the Sky, Koku Fan Illustrated, N°3.
-, F-4 Phantom II – Phantom in the Sky, Koku Fan Illustrated, N°36, 1987.
-, F-4 Phantom II – Phantom in the Sky, Koku Fan Illustrated, N°54, 1990.

Colour Pictures & Photofiles:

Thornborough, Tony, Mormillo, Frank, Wild Weasels: Elite Radar-Killers of the USAF, Osprey Colour Series, Osprey Publishing Limited, 1992.

Other References:

Anestis, Alexandros, Papadimitriou George, F/RF-4E Phantom II, Photo Gallery & profiles, N°3, Periscopio Publications, 2009.
Antoni, Peter, Deboeck, Nico, Phantom II, A detailed view of the F-4E/F and RF-4E, Detail Series, N°1, Greyhound books, 2008.
Cupido, Joe, “Rhino” – The immortal Phantom II, Wings n°6, Windrow & Greene Publishing, 1993.
Dorr, Robert, Phantoms Forever, Osprey Colour Series, Osprey Publishing Limited, 1987.
Evans, Andy, The Mc Donnell Douglas F-4 Phantom II - Part 1: USAF Variants, No. 12: USAF Variants, Modellers Datafile: No. 12, ADH publishing, 2007.
Gerard, Christian, USAFE Phantoms in Germany, Post WW II Combat Aircraft Series, N°1, Air Doc, 2002.
Holmes, Tony, F-4 Phantom II, Osprey Publishing Limited, 1991.
Lake, Jon (editor), Mc Donnell F-4 Phantom, Spirit in the skies, Airtime Publishing, 2002.
Mormillo, Frank, F-4 Phantom, Ian Allan Limited, 1990.
Peeters, Willy, McDonnell Douglas F-4E Phantom II, Lock-On series N°8, Verlinden Publications, 1990.
Mc Govern, Tim, Mc Donnell F-4E Phantom II, Aerofax Minigraph n°20, Aerofax Inc., 1987.
Shaw, Robbie, F-4 Phantom – Guardian of the Free World, Airlife, 1989.
Thornborough, Anthony, USAF Phantoms, Arms & Armour Press, 1988.
Thornborough, Anthony, Davies, Peter, The Phantom Story, Arms & Armour Press, 1997.
Thornborough, Anthony, Mormillo, Frank, Iron Hand - Smashing the Enemy’s Air Defences, Patrick Stephens Limited, 2002.
-, Phantom – A Tribute to the F-4 Phantom Combat Fighter, Classic Aircraft series N°1, Key Publishing Limited, 2004 (?).
-, F-4 Phantom II – Phantom in the Sky, Koku Fan Illustrated, N°19, Bunrin Do, 1984.
Various magazines articles (more particularly from Scale Models, IPMS USA & Replic).
Various web pages (more particularly LSP pages and various internet walkarounds such as on ARC) & “F4Sforever” newsgroup old posts.
Various F-4E technical manuals and extracts.